Day 74, 13/9/2009, Albany

Slightly better weather. (I hope some of this finishes up in Victoria. Without the wind, I mean. Just the rain.)
Walked along the coast, watching huge waves and a lazy whale. Spectacular. Always thought Wilson’s Prom was unique, but similar here, rocky mountains descending to the sea, but instead of coast, many bays and islands.
Spoke to nice local couple on our walk. Told them of our plan for the Nullarbor: go to Esperance, then Balladonia etc. Explained we would therefore do a max of 500 kms. per day. “Oh no,” they exclaimed, “When we went a few years ago, we drove straight from Albany to Balladonia.”
They said this took nine hours. We began to feel like puny travellers, compared to these tough folks. “Gee, nine hours”, we commented, “How did you cope with that?” They then admitted it was the worst thing they had ever done, never to be repeated.
We felt less puny.

Visited exciting vistas at wild coastlines, like the gap and blow holes. Giant rock faces join the ocean. Information tells us that matching rock can be found at the Antarctic, from where Australia split off, and continues to move away from, at 5 cm. annually.
Huge waves smash in, with spray appearing to move in slow motion. All tourists, including us, transfixed. Despite the fact that clearly anyone falling from the cliffs could kiss their a**s goodbye, one hirsute be-hatted chap ventured near the edge for photos, watched disapprovingly by 14 year old boys.
Pam hoped the camera would be thrown back, in case of misadventure.

Went out to the old whaling station that finished operations in 1978. The tour guide was quick to point out it closed for economic reasons, not because of protests. Price of ship’s oil went up (OPEC); price for whale oil went down, ships due for replacement at $million cost. The operation became unviable overnight. Guide proudly anti-greenie, delighted in tales of protesters left in the night, 50 miles out to sea in rubber ducky boats.
The tour was fascinating, particularly the three stage steam engines used by the whaling ships. I did the same sort of tour 35 years ago when the station was still in operation. The smell was much better this time. Photos from operational days show visitors in the background holding their noses. I didn’t miss the clouds of flies either.
Whales bleed heaps, often many attached to boats near the shore. This was attractive to white pointers, that would leap about, ripping at the dead whales, or each other. The sea would be red with blood. No-one went swimming here, mentioned the guide.
Learned amazing facts about whales, like the heart of a blue whale being the size of a Volkswagen.

Very glad that whales now journey down the coast to be watched by people, rather than being turned into oil and dog food.

Pat now wants to be known as "captain of the caravan."